House 1881, or the former Marine Police Headquarters, is known for its previous whisky bar, Whisky@Stables, and its boutique hotel on the upper floors. Its five F&B outlets – including Cantonese restaurant Fortune Villa – have been revamped. The location is a bit hidden, even within the main building; – the restaurant is tucked away inside a hallway towards the back of the building.

When you enter, the first thing you notice is that the main dining room is tight with fewer than 10 small tables, but there is a private room, and the premises can seat up to 60 people.

The restaurant serves delicate dim sum such as baked abalone puff with diced chicken (HK$60 per person), Iberico pork char siu (HK$280) and yin-yang sesame rolls (HK$58) on its lunch menu. But Fortune Villa’s unique offerings are on the dinner menu.

Foie gras in Chinese Hua Diao wine at Fortune Villa
Liver marinated in alcohol is a traditional Chiu Chow dish, and chef K.K. Ngai has taken this classic into the 21st century by using French foie gras in Chinese Hua Diao wine (HK$280). The ingredient is transformed into a downright delicacy placed on a piece of toast (pictured). We like the East meets West combination and found this a refreshing start.

Next up was delicious wok-fried shrimps with Chinese leeks in X.O. sauce. Based on the street market or dai pai dong dishes of yesteryear, the seafood’s spiciness paired with perfectly browned cashews were a treat (HK$268). Many of the signature dishes at Fortune Villa may not reach new culinary heights, but are a well-executed, modern interpretation of Hong Kong classics.

Fortune Villa

House 1881, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

3988 0188