Inside François Pinault’s rags-to-riches story with Kering: the billionaire started a timber business at 16 then acquired Printemps and Christie’s – now his conglomerate owns Gucci, Balenciaga and YSL
By Ava Robinson
Here’s a look into how Pinault ended up as one of the world’s biggest fashion kings ...
François Pinault attended school at College Saint-Martin in Rennes, France
French businessman François Pinault in 1993. Photo: AFP
His classmates bullied him over his poor background and so he dropped out at 16 to start his first job at his father’s timber business, per Financial Post.
In the early 1960s, Pinault borrowed US$107,000 (100,000 francs) from his family and the bank to launch his first company, Les Établissements François Pinault, a timber trading firm, according to The Guardian. By the early 70s, he started building an empire by buying up smaller timber firms.
He acquired French department store Printemps
Printemps in Paris was founded in 1865. Photo: ShutterstockBeginning in the 1990s, Pinault looked beyond the timber business. He acquired French department store Printemps – a controversial deal that put Pinault on the map – then added a vineyard to his portfolio with the acquisition of Chateau Latour, a winery in Bordeaux.
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French entrepreneur François Pinault on a plane on his way to the forest of Broceliande, that he is paying to replant. Photo: Getty Images
In 1994, the company changed its name to Pinault Printemps Redoute, or PPR, after acquiring La Redoute, a French mail-order retailer.
By the end of the decade, he’d set his sights on luxury
Christie’s International, the fine arts and historical artefacts auction house. Photo: AFPIn the mid-1990s, Pinault made a few unsuccessful bids to get into the financial services market. But by the end of the decade, he’d set his sights on luxury, first acquiring the auction house Christie’s for US$1.2 billion, then snapping up a 42 per cent stake in fashion house Gucci.French businessman François Pinault (right) shakes hands with Texan designer Tom Ford (left), responsible for all Gucci creations (clothing, shoes, perfumes), as president of the board of directors of Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, Serge Weinberg (second right) and president of Gucci, Domenico De Sole (second left) look on, during a press conference, in 1999, in Paris. Photo: AFPBut the acquisition of Gucci sparked a nearly two-and-a-half-year battle with fellow billionaire Bernard Arnault, CEO of rival luxury conglomerate LVMH, which also owned a stake in the company. At the time, The New York Times labelled the legal war “one of the most bitter fights in corporate history”. LVMH eventually sold its stake in Gucci to PPR for US$2 billion.
Further growing Pinault’s luxury cache
Luxury brands in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jonathan Wong
Meanwhile, Gucci acquired luxury brand Yves Saint Laurent, further growing Pinault’s luxury cache.
Gucci acquired Balenciaga and other fashion houses. Photo: BalenciagaThe acquisitions of jewellery company Boucheron and fashion houses Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga followed soon after, along with a partnership with the label Alexander McQueen.
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One of Pinault’s three children was being groomed to take over the business
French businessman François Pinault (centre) poses with his son François-Henri Pinault (left), head of French luxury group Kering, and grandson François (right) after holding a press conference with the Paris mayor to announce an art museum project within the Bourse du Commerce building in central Paris, which will house Pinault’s private art collection, on in April 2016, in Paris. Photo: AFP
Meanwhile, one of Pinault’s three children, François-Henri Pinault, was being groomed to take over the business. By 2005, the younger Pinault was named PPR’s CEO.
Under his son’s direction, the company continued to acquire brands, with a special interest in luxury fashion houses. In 2013, the company was renamed Kering, a name it still bears today.
François-Henri Pinault joined the multibillion-dollar conglomerate started by his father. Photo: Getty Images
In 2018, Kering spun off the athletic brand Puma, thus completing the final transformation to a luxury group.
Pinault’s son is an active member of the fashion community
Salma Hayek and François-Henri Pinault have been married since 2019. Photo: @salmahayek/InstagramFrançois-Henri Pinault regularly attends fashion shows and walks red carpets with his wife, actress Salma Hayek. The two married in 2009 and share a daughter.François-Henri Pinault with his wife Salma Hayek and daughter Valentina Paloma Pinault. Photo: @salmahayek/Instagram
Pinault and his son and daughter-in-law are sometimes spotted at football games. Through his investment firm, Groupe Artemis, Pinault owns Stade Rennais football club, based in his hometown in Brittany.
The elder Pinault stepped down and shifted his focus to his main passion: art
Artist Jeff Koons and François Pinault attend the opening of a contemporary art exhibition at the Garage Gallery in March 2009, in Moscow, Russia. Photo: Getty Images
When the elder Pinault stepped down from the helm of PPR, he shifted his focus to his main passion: art. On top of his ownership of Christie’s, Pinault is regarded as one of the biggest private art collectors in the world.
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François Pinault at Inauguration of the New Venue, The Punta Della Dogana Gallery, Showing François Pinault’s Art Collection. Photo: Getty Images
Pinault’s 2,000-piece art collection includes work by Piet Mondrian, Joan Miró, Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko and Robert Rauschenberg.
Through the Pinault Foundation, Pinault owns two art galleries in Venice
François Pinault attends the opening of Madame Fisscher Exhibition at Palazzo Grassi in April 2012, in Venice, Italy. Photo: Getty Images
Through the Pinault Foundation, Pinault owns two art galleries in Venice: the Palazzo Grassi …
Punta della Dogana, of the Francois Pinault Foundation contemporary art museum, is illuminated for nighttime filming of The Tourist in March 2010, in Venice, Italy. Photo: Getty Images
… and the Punta della Dogana, opened in 2009.
A general view of the “Bourse du Commerce” by architects François-Joseph Belanger and Henri Blondel, which hosted the contemporary art museum of the Pinault Foundation in Paris, France in June 2017. Photo: Reuters
In 2016, following the terrorist attacks in Paris, Pinault announced plans to build a museum at the historic Bourse du Commerce in Paris. The gallery, which houses more than 3,000 works of contemporary art, opened in 2021.
Pinault is close friends with former French president Jacques Chirac
Jacques Chirac and François Pinault attend the Il Mondo Vi Appartiene exhibition opening during the 54th International Art Biennale at Palazzo Grassi in June 2011, in Venice, Italy. Photo: WireImage
Along with his circle of high-profile artists, Pinault is close friends with former French president Jacques Chirac. The Guardian once reported that Pinault was one of the few people to have the former president’s personal phone number.
Pinault has been married to his wife, Maryvonne Pinault, since 1970
François Pinault and Maryvonne Pinault attend the dinner at Fondazione Cini, Isola di san Giorgio in May 2015, in Venice, Italy. Photo: Getty Images
Besides François-Henri, the couple has two other children.
The Pinaults got on board with entering the luxury yacht and cruise business in 2018. Photo: Handout
In 2018, the couple entered the luxury cruise and yacht business, buying the cruise line Ponant on Maryvonne’s suggestion, Bloomberg reported.
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Salma Hayek with François-Henri Pinault and Mathilde and Valentina Pinault. Photo: @salma_hayek_29/Instagram
The Pinaults own multiple houses, including a mansion in London and in 2013, he paid US$16.5 million for a Bel Air home owned by the late celebrity hairstylist Vidal Sassoon.
He was among France’s richest to pledge millions to repair the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Smoke billows as flames burn through the roof of the Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral, in the French capital Paris in 2019. Photo: AFP
When the Notre-Dame Cathedral caught fire in 2019, the younger Pinault announced that the family would donate then about US$109 million (100 million euros), to repair the iconic landmark. The Pinaults were among several of France’s richest people to pledge millions in funds for the repairs.
French businessman François Pinault attends the presentation of the project to install his art collection at the Paris Commercial Exchange in April 2016, in Paris, France. Photo: Getty Images
Today, Pinault is the 31st richest person in the world, with a net worth of US$37 billion, per Bloomberg.