I’ve eaten ribs passed through a Plexiglas wall in Detroit. I’ve chewed bones and discarded them in paper bags placed on the table in Memphis. I’ve had ribs made by churchwomen on barbecues made from hinged oil drums.
So while Boca Raton doesn’t seem like one of the country’s rib capitals, owners Craig and Karin Larson keep the tradition alive in Palm Beach County. They opened in 1996 in Boca and last year in Delray Beach (710 Linton Blvd., 561-330- 6705).
So successful is their formula that they’re looking for possible expansion into Boynton Beach and points south.
Part of the charm of Lucille’s is the decor. The walls are covered with old signs. There’s a clothesline strung across the middle of the dining room. Metal buckets have been turned into light fixtures above each booth. You can’t help but feel relaxed here. It is a fun neighborhood spot where kids are welcome.
A clown greets us at the door. A team of youthful servers is eager to please. It’s clear from the get-go that the Larsons know about the importance of training.
We start with a garbage lid sampler ($10.95), a huge platter of deep fried onions, sweet potato fries, boneless chicken wings and nachos topped with chili, jack and cheddar cheese, diced tomatoes, black olives, jalapenos, scallions and sour cream. So often, sweet potatoes don’t translate to the fryer. These do.
The appetizer list also includes chili ($3.50), chicken livers ($3.95) and quesadillas ($6.50).
If you’ve got a small appetite, go for sandwiches, which include pulled pork ($4.95), blackened or fried catfish ($5.95) and a burger ($5.95).
But come here for big servings of protein — ribs and other delights.
There are several combination plates that will allow you to taste lots and then return for your favorite. I order The Best of Both Worlds ($16.95), a half rack of baby back ribs and a half rack of St. Louis ribs.
Baby back ribs are the leaner of the two and my personal favorite. Cut from the loin, they are less fatty than spare ribs. St. Louis-style ribs are spare ribs from which the brisket bone has been removed. I do feel like I’ve sampled the best of both worlds. They aren’t smoked, but the sauce has a slightly smoked flavor.
Entrees come with two sides and I order collard greens, to which a little too much vinegar has been added, and tender smoky baked beans. Other sides include mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, a simple baked potato or coleslaw. The slaw is neither creamy, nor vinegary. It’s a bit bland.
The chopped beef brisket platter ($8.50) has enough simmered-to-tenderness beef on it for four adults
Just in case you think this is all about beef and pork, there are other options, including chicken pie in a pot ($9.95). All-white-meat chicken is served in a skillet with mashed potatoes on top. There’s also a catfish platter ($10.95) and an 8-ounce salmon fillet blacked or grilled ($10.95).
Desserts aren’t toiled over here. Grammy’s hot apple crisp ($4.95) is part cobbler, part Betty. But with so many hot spots, it must have been heated in the microwave instead of the oven.
Banana cream pie ($2.95), a pie of the day, gets its banana flavor from extract. There’s not a single slice of banana in the slice.
Still, you shouldn’t have room for dessert after these ribs. They are what Lucille’s does best.
Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
John Tanasychuk can be reached at jtanasychuk@ sun-sentinel.com or 954-356-4632 or by writing to him at the Sun-Sentinel.
