An important new restaurant has opened in Boynton Beach.
And if you’re like everyone else I’ve told about Nirvana, you’ll want to know — why Boynton? The simple answer comes from chef owner Ricky Gopeesingh: “I live in west Boynton.”
And Boynton Beach, like so much of South Florida, is now home to some sophisticated folks who don’t necessarily want to drive to Delray Beach or West Palm Beach for a good meal. Gopeesingh walked into the space he would later rent and saw the large windows. He called his wife, Mary, a registered nurse, who took a leave of absence to get Nirvana on firm footing, and told her he’d found the place. The restaurant is named after their daughter, who turns 3 this month.
Gopeesingh calls his menu Indo-Caribbean fusion. Originally from Trinidad, Gopeesingh traces his roots to India. About 35 percent of Trinidad’s population can do the same. His family made the move in the 1840s, and Gopeesingh grew up in a Hindu household where Indian flavors met the fresh ingredients of the island.
He first moved to New York to study architecture, but found that he preferred the restaurant work he had taken on. In South Florida, he first worked at a few country clubs before becoming executive chef at Delray Beach’s Pineapple Grill.
Fans of that restaurant will recognize a few dishes on the Nirvana menu, but Gopeesingh has added more subtle Indian flavors here. Curry, for instance, is used in dry rubs but not often in sauces. No single influence takes over.
He somehow manages to meld the flavors of the Caribbean, India and the United States into winning combinations. There often seems to be a lot on the plate, but flavors are fused seamlessly.
Guests at Nirvana sit down to a plate of roti, the flour wraps made with split peas, and dips of a sort. They are a sweet tamarind chutney and spicy green mango chow. Dinner is a slow affair here. The average dine time is two hours and 15 minutes.
You might start with a Bajan fisherman’s broth ($4.95), a refreshing cilantro-scented bowl of soup that contained snapper, shrimp, yucca, plantains and sweet potatoes. Sugar-cane skewered herbed portobello ($7.50) starts with a grilled portobello mushroom mixed with roasted bell peppers, avocado, Maytag blue cheese, fresh greens and a pineapple-cider vinaigrette. His jumbo lump crab cakes ($12.95) are plantain crusted and served over greens with a mango cream aioli, goat cheese and avocado.
Among the light fare and pasta offerings are Antiguan grilled prawns ($14.95) served in a toasted parmesan basket. The prawns are served with cucumber, tomatoes, olives, mesclun, tropical fruit salsa and cilantro. But it’s the cheesy basket, a nod to the American palate, which takes this dish to a new level.
Every entree was a winner. There’s mango goat cheese chicken ($19.50), a butterflied breast stuffed with mango, goat cheese and roasted red peppers and seasoned with garlic and cilantro. Jerk-spiced pork tenderloin ($20.95) is roasted and served with asiago, polenta, bell pepper and red bean ragout and jalapeno relish. Peppered Frenched lamb chops ($26.95) are served with a whole portobello, chive-infused Yukon gold mashed potatoes, orange chow and lemongrass-citrus Hollandaise. Finally, there’s a tender garam masala grilled filet mignon ($28.50) with wild mushroom confit, caramelized port wine shallots and green pepper-mustard sauce.
The Gopeesinghs and their partners Bonnie Levy and Bill Bampton say they’re committed to not overbooking the restaurant. It’s a long, slow meal, but they’ve thought of every element of the experience, from quality glassware and comfortable chairs to a non-pretentious wine list and music. On weekend nights, Adrian Montijo plays acoustic guitar and sings. One set included Fever, What A Wonderful World and My Favorite Things from Sound of Music. It all works.
I would say that Boynton Beach has a hit on its hands. Give Nirvana a little more time and it will also be Boynton’s first four-star restaurant.
Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
John Tanasychuk can be reached at or 954-356-4632 or by writing to him at the Sun-Sentinel.
3 1/2 Stars (out of 4)
Cuisine: Indo-Caribbean fusion
Catalina Shopping Centre,1701 N. Congress Ave., Boynton Beach
561-752-1932
Cost: expensive
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch weekdays, dinner daily
Reservations: recommended
Sound level: moderate, live music Friday and Saturday
Bar: beer, wine
Smoking: prohibited
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Children’s facilities: menu, boosters, high chairs
Poor Fair Good Excellent
