Earthen hues – browns, reds and yellows, colours long-associated with the heritage brand – were widely used by creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski in her utilitarian, low-key yet luxuriant universe for spring.

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Another earthy look from the Hermès ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection shown on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
As ever with Hermès, bags were key to the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week. Photo: AFP

It was Vanhee-Cybulski’s minimalist take on the 1980s, with the lone pulsating crystal projecting colour from the centre of the runway to establish the collection’s key idea: simplicity is powerful.

Simplicity was central to the Hermès spring/summer 2023 collection, with little jewellery and make-up in evidence. Photo: AFP
Another earthy look, along with box platforms, seen on Hermès’ Paris Fashion Week runway on October 1. Photo: AP

As the show took off, odd utilitarian features – such as toggles and the perplexing box platform shoes that stomped throughout – were used with subtlety but aplomb.

A model brings a splash of colour amid all the brown at the Hermès spring/summer 2023 collection in Paris on October 1. Photo: Xinhua
Hermès creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski styled the spring/summer 2023 fashion show in Paris, on October 1. Photo: AFP

They brought a sporty edge to the desert backdrop that overall left the collection with an empty feel that now defines the 44-year-old French designer’s repertoire.

Outfit for a world on fire? A lightweight look from the Hermès spring/summer 2023 show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week on October 1. Photo: AFP
Lean chic: another simple creation from the Hermès spring/summer 2023 collection during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, on October 1. Photo: Xinhua

Tan suede tunic minidresses sported beautiful, braided leather hems – showcased without jewellery on a make-up-less model. Elsewhere, exposed midriffs latticed with cords and toggles came on otherwise unfussy slim silhouettes.