Seasons 52 rolled into town in January, unpacked its concept for seasonally inspired cooking with every menu item less than 475 calories, and it’s been standing-room only ever since.
Even in infancy, this restaurant is extremely well run. It’s the latest brainchild of Darden Restaurants Inc. — think Smokey Bones, Bahama Breeze, Red Lobster and Olive Garden. And, if the starry-eyed crowds are any indication, they’ve got a smash hit on their hands.
The atmosphere is casually sophisticated and beautifully designed — fieldstone and rich woods, soft lighting and foliage in all the right places. The well-trained service staff is friendly, but not too, with exceptional menu and wine knowledge. Each carries a hand-held computer for taking orders and getting specific nutritionals and allergy information, should you ask.
The main bill of fare, focused on nutritionally balanced meals and fewer calories than similar restaurant meals, changes seasonally, while weekly offerings (primarily the fresh catch and soups) appear on the right side of the menu. An extensive wine list contains more than 65 by-the-glass picks (1/4 bottle) and about 100 bottles, including limited-production South African selections.
Start with a paper-thin flatbread — they’re just right to take the edge off appetites without being too filling. The simplest one carries a topping of rosemary and parmesan ($2.75), served in a paper cone (the others are long affairs served on boards). Try spicy shrimp, broccoli, caramelized mozzarella with chili pepper sauce ($8.75), the one with grilled steak, roasted cremini and melted blue cheese ($9.25) or the Greek salad-inspired one with grilled onions, feta, olives, tomatoes, pepperoncini and romaine ($7).
House-made goat cheese ravioli in a pool of fresh tomato broth with basil and pine nuts ($6.75) is light yet rewarding, and grilled romaine salad ($6.25), one-half of a horizontally cut head with light smoky flavors, is drizzled with thick parmesan dressing.
We weren’t as impressed with garlic roasted Idaho potato wedges ($3.75), served in Lincoln Log fashion, (they lacked garlic), and the cracked wheat and cranberry tabbouleh salad with toasted almonds, pignoli nuts, cucumbers and tomatoes ($4.25) didn’t wow us with flavor, either.
On the other hand, the vine-ripe tomato and blue cheese stack ($7.50) is splendid with layers of really good tomatoes, lightly grilled red onion, fresh asparagus, blue cheese crumbles, a bit of balsamic and fluffy arugula.
Among main plates, we liked the well-prepared tamarind-glazed turkey and Vidalia onion skewer ($13.75), hunks of moist turkey brushed with a slightly sweet glaze and chunky mango chutney as a counterpoint. Tender London broil slices in rich mushroom sauce ($15.25) are excellent, as is grilled boneless quail breast with a whisper of delicious cabernet sauce ($18.50).
Fresh fish perfectly grilled over oak and mesquite might be arctic char, similar to salmon, but milder ($16.25), a delicate white fish called tripletail ($17.75), ruby trout ($14.25) or ahi tuna ($19.25).
The dish I’d order again and again is jumbo tiger shrimp with farfalle pasta ($16), in a flavor-packed delicate lemon-herb sauce dense enough to stick to the blending of pasta and veggies.
Most entrees are accompanied by pristinely fresh vegetables, from corn saute that tastes off-the-cob fresh to slender asparagus with roasted Fuji apples.
Seasons 52 cleverly takes the guilt out of eating dessert with nine mini-indulgences, $1.95 each, delivered as a too-tempting-looking-to-resist collection in a metal holder. Each is three or four mouthfuls, packed into tall square shot glasses, averaging 200-300 calories. Our favorites: carrot cake with rum raisin sauce, blueberry lemon cheesecake and pecan pie with vanilla bean mousse. Otherwise, there’s refreshing lemon sorbet (two scoops, $4.75) surrounded by fresh blueberries, raspberries and strawberries.
Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks, e-mail her at judithstocksreviews@yahoo .com or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel.
*** 1/2 (out of four stars)
Cuisine: American
2428 E. Sunrise Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale
954-537-1052
Cost: moderate
Credit cards: all major
Hours: lunch, dinner daily
Reservations: strongly recommended
Bar: full service
Sound level: moderate
Smoking: prohibited
Children’s facilities: no
Wheelchair accessible: yes
